![]() ![]() The valves require quite a lot of current, so I wouldn't want to drive them with a battery, and, as they only come on twice a day, having them not work during a power failure will be no big deal. ![]() By wiring them to the "wall power" post, rather than to the uninterruptible power post, they become interruptible. I also soldered the other diode to it.Ī little trick: I also need 12v out of my box to control my water flow valves. The fourth post is the the 12v "wall power" post (Or whatever you want to call it.) I soldered the lead with the white stripe from the wall wart to it. SunRobotics ESP32 Development Board WiFi+Bluetooth With OV2640 Camera Module. I soldered the red lead of the battery to this post, and I soldered one of the diodes to this post. 1 x Waterproof Digital Temperature Thermal Probe Sensor For Arduino. I soldered the positive (white stripe) lead of the arduino plug in to it.Ī third post is the 9v "battery in" post. I soldered both diodes to it, the lead at the end with the white stripe. I then soldered the all-black lead from the plug for the arduino (which I had absconded from the wall wart) onto the negative as well.Ī second post is the uninterruptable power post. I soldered the negative lead (the one without the stripe) to the ground as well. One lead of the pair of wires from the wall wart is marked with a white stripe, or white dotted line or sometimes a few ridges. I soldered the black wire of the battery case to it. One of the four posts is the ground post. I think that silicone glue might work better, as it is rather heat tolerant. ![]() Despite its appearance, this sensor is not compatible with the HC-SR04. I used carpenter's glue which worked really badly as it melted when I soldered to the wire posts. The device is enclosed in a rubber-like material and is fully waterproof. It is similar to the Duemilanove, but has a different USB-to-serial. It can be extended with a variety of shields: custom daughter-boards with specific features. It connects to the computer with a standard USB cable and contains everything else you need to program and use the board. I drilled 4 holes to hold some heavy wire, then glued the heavy wire into the holes. This is the latest revision of the basic Arduino USB board. Using the plumber's strap, I mounted the wall wart with power prods up, and the battery case to the board. The arduino's on-board voltage regulator will smooth it all out. If it isn't working, the voltage into the arduino will drop to 9v, because the battery will supply it. The wall wart, outputting 12v, will supply the power if it is working. How it works: The diodes make sure that power only comes out of power sources, not in. ![]()
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